James Hathaway – Page 72

Two weeks in Sicily, Part 3

Mothya Island

A visit to Mothya Island is highly recommended. A short boat ride from the shore, the Phoenicians built a settlement here 2,700 years ago. Today it hosts a small museum dedicated to salt. The surrounding area still produces salt today. It is a fun way to spend a few hours.

On the drive back to our hotel, we stopped at the famed Pellegrino Cellars. Known best in the US for the Pellegrino brand of sparkling waters, the two facilities in Sicily are world renown for their wines. The Marsala wines are the most famous but there is an extensive production of white and red wines as well. While not open to the public for tours, we were lucky enough to have a private tour of the winery and a vertical tasting of Marsala wines. The building is a gorgeous statement to modern architecture. (We purchased a 1/2 bottle of a desert red for nightcaps in our room. Yum!!)

Valley of Temples

Just outside of the City of Agrigento, formerly the ancient Greek city of Akragas are the remains of eight Greek temples built between 510 and 430 BC. The “valley” is actually a ridge overlooking the Sea on one side and modern Agrigento overlooking the Temples on the other. They are simply stunning and among some of the best Greek ruins anywhere. Plan a half day at least.

Vecchia Masseria

We single out this traditional farm house/agriturismo for two reasons. It is wonderfully unique lodging comprising of a large “manor house” (surrounded by a handful of similar smaller buildings. Opt for the original manor.) Secondly, the dining room served arguably the best dinner of the trip. World class cuisine and superb wines.

Vecchia Masseria, C/DA Cutuminello, Caltagirone (CT), Italy

Villa Romana del Casale

The ruins of this Roman villa built in the 4th century AD was buried by a landslide in the 12th century. Discovered in the 20th century and excavated revealing some of the finest mosaics in all of Europe. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site not to be missed if you are in this area.

Ragusa and Modica

Old town Ragusa Ibla is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are numerous ornately decorated Baroque buildings, the 18th century Duomo di San Giorgio. Plan a day to simply explore and wander the narrow streets, follow your nose for food and your eyes for shopping. Both towns are hilly, public transportation and taxis are readily available.

Modica is the “sister” city although there is and has always been a rivalry between the two towns. Modica’s Val di Noto is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Both towns were largely rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake. We joined a local Fiat 500 club one afternoon for a wild ride through narrow street and lanes of the old part of Modica. It was a fun and wild ride.

Monsu

Another of our favorite restaurants in the entire trip was at Monsu, C.so XXV Aprile, 84 Ragusa Ibla. Husband and wife team up to produce a amazing French fusion menu served in a modern updated ancient building. Very reasonably priced food and wine with exceptional service.

Syracuse

Once one of the most powerful ports of ancient times, Syracuse boosts a 2700 year history. Also a UNESCO World Heritage site with Greek, Roman, Medieval and Baroque architecture coexist. The highlight is the Piazza del Duomo, a huge square adjacent to the duomo built using the ruins of a Greek temple. An afternoon boat ride around the Ortigia Bay is a must to take in the most of this remarkable city.

Catania and Taormina

Catania is a vibrant city, a bustling cross roads of cultures, history, education and culture. At the footsteps of Mt. Etna, the charcoal colored buildings have a distinct unique look, especially at night. There is a awesome WWII war museum well worth a visit. The local fish market is popular for shopping and dining alike.

Taormina is a short journey up the hillside with a Greek amphitheater as it star attraction. There is a charming shopping and dining district and sweeping views of Mt. Etna and the coast.

Mt. Etna, One of the most active volcanos in the world.

End Sicily

Two weeks in Sicily, Part 2

Erice

This medieval town feels like it has been in a time capsule. It is surrounded by walls. It sits on a mountain-top overlooking the sea on one side and the vast landscape on the other.

We visited on a Monday in February somewhat early and much of the town seems closed. Somehow this added to the charm. It was charming and picturesque. The local Postal lady delivering mail from house to house on the narrowest of cobblestone streets. The occasional shop keeper opening for the day. A charming café offering a hot cup of coffee for a few moments out of the chilly morning wind.

It was well worth the extra time to seek this out. I can imagine it crowded and bustling in the height of summer and reflecting on the peace and tranquility of seeing in in the off season.

Segesta

This ancient home of the Elymians, one of Sicily’s indigenous peoples, later populated by the Greeks. The highlight of the area is the unfinished Doric temple proudly standing on a hilltop surrounded by an idyllic setting of vineyards, olive groves and expansive countryside.

Mazara Del Vallo

Not far from Segesta is Mazara del Vallo, a family run agriturismo, Tenute Pispisa Segesta. The facility hosts lodging, dining, and special events in a spectacular setting. We had an amazing lunch made from all farm grown and prepared ingredients highlighted by exceptional wines produced on site. We bought a couple Afterwards we chose to hike back to the main road along the acres of vineyards, olive groves adjacent forests.

Tenute Pispisa Segesta, www.tenutepispisasegesta.com, info@tenutepispisasegesta.com

Mazara

Mazara is a multicultural city with an impressive Duomo. There is a quaint little museum housing a Greek bronze statue dating back 2000 years recovered by local fishermen from the nearby sea.

Mazara is also the home to a thriving “Kasbah” where over 3000 Arabs and Tunisians work and live. The area is noted for its artisans tile work.

Part 3 coming soon!

Mothya Island

Piazza Armerina

Ragusa

Catania

Mt. Etna

Two weeks in Sicily, Part 1

We piggy backed our tour of Sicily with a week on our own in Rome. (See TRAVEL: Rome post, dated 4/7/2016.)

Alitalia has several flights a day between from Rome (and other major Italian cities) and Palermo and Catania, Sicily.

The views upon approach were strikingly beautiful. City and mountains meet the azure seas. The compact airport was easy to navigate. A taxi from the airport to central Palermo was about 50 Euros. We opted for a first class shuttle bus that had a stop one block from our hotel costing only 12 Euros each.

The first impression at this new destination was a bit disappointing. After leaving the Airport the coastal highway presented a series of old, crumbling industrial sites and miles of modest to dilapidated ocean front homes.

Palermo

As we got closer to Palermo the roads and images improved. Suddenly Palermo appeared to be an extensive series of midrise housing blocks with commercial or retail on the first floor, somewhat void of any historic character.

Finally we arrived at a central square overlooking one of two Opera houses, our stop. As it turned out, our Plaza Opera Hotel was centrally located one block from the most important shopping street in Palermo and an easy walk to restaurants and the old part of town. The hotel, while compact, has a charming breakfast room and a hearty breakfast, a cute tiny bar, comfortable modern rooms with all the amenities. There is a roof deck open in good weather. Service was excellent. Most staff spoke excellent English. Plaza Opera Hotel, via Nicolo Gallo, 2, 90139 Palermo, Italia. info@hotelplazaopera.com or www.the hotel sphere.com.

As we spent the afternoon getting acquainted with our new home for the next few days, we made a wonderful discovery that lasted the rest of our trip: prices were 30% to 70% cheaper than most of Western Europe. A liter of bottled water was 25 cents and good wines were 3 to 5 Euros. Perfectly satisfying whites and reds at bargain prices. You could spend more but given the quality and selection, we were happy campers.

Palermo: Old Quarter

This area is the ancient part of Palermo and the confluence of the many nations that ruled this city over the centuries, predominately Christian and Islam. This well preserved area of the city is filled with buildings dating back centuries. Most are well preserved or restored. The cathedral was first a mosque before being expanded and converted to a church during the Norman period. It has a look and feel different from most of Europe but that is part of the charm and fascination.

Monreale

Overlooking Palermo is suburban Monreale and its 12th Century Norman Cathedral. Nearly every surface of the interior is covered in mosaics of biblical scenes in rich colors and lots of gold.

After returning to Palermo’s historic quarter for a walk through the traditional marketplace, we lunched on roasted vegetables, pasta and pastries.

Castelbuono & Cefalu

Sandwiched between the bay and a massive granite cliff is the bucolic town of Cefalu. Its Romanesque cathedral dates back to 1131.

Set in the Madonie Mountains, Castelbuono is a well preserved medieval town complete with 14th century castle embattlements and towers.

Part 2…Coming Soon

Mazara Del Vallo

Mothya Island

Piazza Armerina

Ragusa

Catania

Mt. Etna

Money Monster, Dark Horse, High Rise, Sing Song

Money Monster

It seems the critics were expecting a Wall Street epiphany from this Jodie Foster directed film about a live Investments Television show that is derailed when a young disgruntled blue collar investor takes over the set and threatens to blow everyone up with a bomb.

I’ll admit, it’s not perfect and there are some wrinkles that are a bit far fetched, but the core story is pretty good. Strong performances by George Clooney, Julia Roberts and Jack O’Connell as the would be bomber whose character is way out of his league.

The tension factor is about right. The police as mislead heavy handed public servants is reflective of the current public perception. It was an entertaining way to spend a couple of hours. Just don’t expect any big industry awards for this one.

Rating:

Dark Horse

It is hard not to like this true story. A hand full of working class friends from a poor mining village in Wales pool their meager resources to buy a broodmare who produces a foal that eventually becomes a champion race horse that wins the Welsh Grand National.

It is a documentary that flows like a soap opera or sit com. There are plenty of social commentaries woven into the story. In fact, it is core to the story. It’s the winner of several audience awards including the 2015 World Documentary Award at the 2015 Sundance Film Festival.

It is a feel good film that offers a rare glimpse into simple village life in rural UK.

Rating:

High Rise

This is suppose to be a Fantasy Science Fiction film about class warfare that erupts in a modern urban high rise residential building resulting in chaos and carnage. The idea seems to reveal or exploit the extreme socioeconomic canyons between the “haves” and “have nots”.

Instead, the story degenerates into obscure violence, strong sexual content/nudity, and a plethora of disturbing images and language. I am surprised with only an R rating.

The great cast and well intended plot could not save this film. At almost two hours, we were delighted when the movie ended. Note the rare rating.

Rating: ZERO GLOBES

Sing Street

Here is a feel good movie that will remind you of your youth (hopefully). Set in Dublin, Ireland in 1985 and filled with music of the era. Fourteen year old school boys from a poor rough Catholic neighborhood decide to start a band.

The lead singer falls for the young “model” across the street. The suitor uses the “band”, not yet created, to draw her into the making of a music video to promote the new venture.

The talented young want-to be-band members quickly find their ‘sound’ (think Duran Duran) and eventually land a gig at the school. Of course there is the parallel love interest and a great ending. Rated PG. Some strong language, bullying and drugs. (It was the 80s!)

Special note: There is a scene in the movie set in the Dublin suburb of Dalkey. John and I and John’s Mom were there in 1985 (same year the movie is set in). It looks as charming now as it did then.

Rating:

Five night getaway in Panama City, Panama

Hi all!

Just got back from a 5 night, 4 day getaway to Panama City, Panama for my birthday. Thank you John!

Panama had been on the bucket list for a while. The thinking was sooner or later we’d get there on a cruise through the canal but for no particular reason that never materialized.

First impression

It’s a big sprawling city of over 1 million inhabitants. The preferred housing seems to be high rise apartments or condos preferably on or near the coast. Other areas mix residential with commercial towers in the city center. That said, there are also extensive low income and impoverished neighborhoods tucked into the cities nooks and crannies.

A big surprise was NO BUGS. No flies, no mosquitoes! Who knew, especially in a hot humid climate. Another surprise was the US Dollar is the national currency. Even better, prices are 20% to 30% lower than much of the US.

Logistics

Getting around is relatively easy. Taxis, and Uber, are plentiful and most trips are between $5 and $10. The taxi from the airport to the city center is a flat rate of $30. But the trip back to the airport was $39. We noticed tolls and assumed that caused the variance. (That said, we were told there was an exit tax of $20 per person but upon check in and immigration no such tax was collected.)

There is a short subway system with one line. It is clean, modern, fast and popular. It will take you from the City Center (two blocks from our hotel) to the Albrook Mall and the Regional Bus terminal. You must purchase a card for $2 and then add money to the card (same machine, English or Spanish). Each ride is $.35 and can be used by more than one person.

Hotel

We chose the Marriott Hotel in the city center for its location in the center of town. The city center is also the Banking district. What we didn’t know was after banking hours and on weekends, the area is pretty devoid of a street scene.

We arrived about 9:30 PM to discover the room we booked was not available. Good news, we were upgraded to a large Executive room with lounge access for breakfast, snacks and beverages. The hotel had been recently remodeled and offered a great restaurant at reasonable prices, an even better bar, and the usually trappings of an international hotel franchise.

Marriott Panama, Calle 52 y Ricardo Arias, Area Bancaria, Apdo. Postal 832-0498 W.T.C. Panama, Republica de Panama, Tel. (507) 210-9100. E-mail Concierge: mhrs.ptypa.concierge@marriotthotels.com

Across the street from the hotel is a wonderful Lebanese restaurant and bar, Restaurante Beirut. There is a huge covered outdoor patio that is popular for people watching. The food is authentic and excellent. It is a bit expensive but worth the splurge. restaurante_beirut@Hotmail.com.

Things to see and places to go!

We decided the best way to get the lay of the land was the Hop On-Hop Off City and Canal Tour bus. One day 24 hours, $29 Adults (our tickets were good for 30 hours which meant 3 PM the next day!), 48 hours for $39, or 72 hours for $50. Buses ran every 45 minutes to every hour depending on the day. The lower level is fully air conditioned. The upper level is covered and generally preferred. Headsets in multiple languages are at every seat.

There are only 6 stops but some how manage to cover most of the City Center, the waterfront, the Albrook Mall, the Miraflores locks of the Panama Canal, the Biodiversity Museum, the Causeway islands, and the old town. info@citytourspanama.com. Details below.

Multicentro Shopping Center

A large part of the local culture centers on the many Shopping Centers in Panama City. Hotels, and residential towers tend to use these shopping centers for shopping, dining and entertainment. The Multicentro is a large indoor/outdoor multi level facility with a little bit of everything. Local, regional and international brands can be found here.

Canal de Panama (Miraflores Locks)

This is a MUST DO attraction. There is a $15 admission charge to the Miraflores visitor center. This allows access to the museum, viewing terraces, gift shop, restaurant and bar. Plan at least an hour or two.

Biomuseo

This museum was designed by Frank Gehry and is surrounded by parklands and the South entrance to the Canal and overlooks the Puente De Las Americas (the Bridge of the Americas).

It is a world class facility with stunning views of the bay, the canal, the old quarter, and the modern city. It also covers 40 million years of history as the land bridge created the link between North and South America.

It is a semi guided journey starting with the gallery of local Biodiversity, what is extinct, endangered and thriving. There is also a stunning 10 screen visual presentation of Panama’s natural wonder in the air, on the land and in the sea.

There is a great display of fossils dating back millions of years and a gallery of the ancient ancestors of todays animals and mankind.

There is a great little café, a nice gift shop, and space for new and temporary exhibits. Plan at least 1 or two hours. Admission is $16. www.biomuseopanama.org

Casco Antiguo Old Quarters

This is the old town of Panama City where you can easily spend a half day or evening. The area is slowly being restored to its old glory with many more buildings waiting for their turn.

It is a peninsula surrounded by water on three sides. It is loaded with places to dine, shop or explore. Sadly, the most important Catedral Metropolitana was closed under massive reconstruction during our visit. The picturesque Plaza Catedral and the adjacent Museo del Canal Interoceanico stand next door.

Don’t miss the Inglesia de San Jose o Altar de Oro with its gold alter. Another must is the Plaza de Francia and the oblisk.

Also worth a look is the Iglesia Nuestra Senora de la Merced dating back to 1680 with its Virgen de la Merced brought from Spain in 1722.

The Mercado del Marisco is just down the main road where the best fresh ceviche and seafood cocktails are popular in the restaurant upstairs.

A local stop for lunch, beer, wine try Super G Casco Viejo, Ave A y Calla Cta for gourmet deli sandwiches, home made soups and salads at reasonable prices. www.supergourmetcascoviejo.com.

Albrook Mall

The subway will get you to the Albrook Mall and the Regional Bus Terminal. The Mall has over 650 stores. It is considered the largest Mall in the country. Filled with large stores and small shops of every variety and description. The two level complex stretches on seemingly forever. There are several huge food courts that attract mammoth crowds from midday into the evening. We found a multiplex movie theater where one movie was showing in “version originale” (English). Stadium seating, we could have been in Santa Monica!

SOHO Mall

Located a 5 minute walk from our hotel, this upscale mall is part of a three tower commercial, Ritz Carlton Hotel and a residential tower. The shopping complex hosts all high end designer stores: Chanel, Dior, Prada, Ferragamo, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and such.

There is an upmarket cinema, seven theaters, all premium stadium seating with butler service, full menu and bar service delivered to your electric reclining seat. Cinepolis SOHO, Calle 50 EDIF, SOHO Mall, Piso 2. Admission $8.50.

There is a collection of nice restaurants as well. We tried Ciao Bella Gourmet. It was superb. White wine, Caprese salad, house made fresh pastas, chocolate pistachio desert, and cappuccinos. Great view of the skyline. The place was packed.

**********************************************************

“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step”

Lao Tzu, ancient Chinese philosopher and writer

Mother’s Day, Captain America: Civil War, Before I Wake, Miracles From Heaven

Mother’s Day

Humm…Jennifer Aniston plays mother of two young boys who is recently divorced, unemployed and demoralized when ex-husband announces his marriage to bombshell new wife. Ex wants visitation of his sons with the new wife. Yup, pretty hard to swallow.

Enter friends Kate Hudson and her sister, next door neighbors and their “secret” spouses. Add bitter parents on perpetual RV road trip that pay a surprise visit and discover the “unique” spouses and chaos prevails.

Oops, I forgot about Julia Roberts as TV Home Shopping diva and long lost daughter with child.

The film is crafted well and relatively well acted. There are some zany moments but don’t expect Oscar material.

Rating:

Captain America: Civil War

The Marvel movie machine hits a home run with this latest franchise film. The Avengers are under global pressure to yield to oversight on their powers to battle evil doers. This causes a divide in the Avengers ranks.

The divide lead by Captain America (Chris Evans) on one side and Ironman (Robert Downey Jr.) on the other with the rest of the superheroes splitting 50/50. This leads to some interesting “engagements”.

The result is interesting and thought provoking entertainment. It is well worth the investment of a couple of hours. Nonstop action and rated PG-13 for violence.

Rating:

Before I Wake

This is a suspenseful supernatural thriller about an 8 year old boy whose dreams become reality. The boy is adopted by a young couple who are struggling with the recent loss of their child only to discover a series of heart wrenching night terrors that come to life.

It is an odd mixture of sci-fi meets creature feature. The critics panned this film but we found it unique and just interesting enough to give it a “see it” nod.

Rating:

Miracles From Heaven

Based on “the incredible true story”, this movie is about the middle daughter of a Texas family who suffers from a rare but potentially deadly intestinal disorder and the struggle to overcome the illness.

It is a powerful tear jerker and is heavy handed on Christian faith but also balanced with the believable power of strong family support.

Jennifer Garner and Queen Latifah deliver solid performances. Rated PG. There are tough scenes of pain and childhood illness.

Rating

NOTE: We love watching movies when we travel. This week we saw Captain America, Before I Wake and Miracles From Heaven in different theaters in Panama City, Panama. The last film was in an upscale shopping center (Prada, Chanel, Dior and such). Arguably the most luxurious theater we have ever visited. Each seat was an oversized recliner with an adjacent service table, call bell to summon a butler for food, cocktails…

It is alway fun to compare theaters and audiences in other countries. It was also a welcomed break from the 80+ temps and 90% humidity for a couple of hours.

Watch for our PANAMA post in the next few days!

Jarlsberg Vegetable Bisque

It seems we have been a bit remiss sharing Food postings. While references to food and restaurants appear in many of the travel posts, we decided to share some of our favorite recipes. Enjoy.

3 tbsp. butter

3 tbsp. flour

4 cups chicken broth (I prefer organic low sodium)

2 cups coarsely chopped broccoli

3/4 cup chopped carrots

1/2 cup chopped celery

1 small onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 tsp. thyme, crushed

1/2 tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. pepper

1 cup heavy cream (substitute 1/2 and 1/2 or whole milk but the bisque will not be as silky or rich)

1 egg yolk

1 1/2 cups Jarlsberg Cheese

In a large heavy saucepan, melt butter over medium high heat. Add flour and cook several minutes, stirring constantly not to burn the flour. Remove from heat. Gradually blend in the broth. Bring to boil, stirring. Add the next 8 ingredients. Cover; simmer for 8 minutes until vegetables are tender. Blend cream and egg yolk in separate bowl. Gradually blend in several tablespoons of the hot stock into the cream mixture (to temper the cream/yolk). Slowly add to the soup and cook stirring until thickened. Blend in cheese stirring until fully melted.

Serve. Makes 6-8 servings.

Notes: You can mix up the veggies here and there as you like. Occasionally I will add three pieces of bacon cooked well, crushed and added just before serving or sprinkled at the table.

You can also sauté the vegetables in butter and/or olive oil first, set aside and deglaze the pot with a splash of white wine. Then make the butter flour roux and continue the recipe. It adds just another subtle layer of flavor.

Serve this with a nice bread of your choice, a salad for a satisfying meal. White wines work especially well with this soup.

Bon Appetite!

Marin County, California Coast

Marin County is just North of San Francisco across the Golden Gate Bridge. With just slightly more than 250,000 people, it is one of the least densely populated counties in the Bay Area metropolitan area.

It is also one of the most beautiful counties on the West coast. It has spectacular headlands, dozens of beaches, numerous redwood groves including the celebrated Muir Woods, Mount Tamalpais, and the Point Reyes National Seashore.

The good news is you can be in incredibly beautiful coastlands 5 minutes North of San Francisco. The bad news is it is not a secret anymore. Travel during weekends after 9 AM and you will find yourself in painfully slow traffic. So travel to the area on week days or get up early on weekends and get on the road by 7 AM to avoid the crowds, especially in the summer and any warm days.

Here are some of our favorite spots.

Marin Headlands

From the City, go North over the Golden Gate Bridge (US 101 N). As soon as you cross the bridge be in the far right lane and take the first exit, Vista Point. There is a large parking lot and excellent views and photo ops of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge.

When ready exit where you entered (right turn only) and stay in the right lane which will be the Alexander Avenue exit. As soon as you exit there will be an immediate left hand turn going under the freeway and then Southbound back towards the bridge. Just before the entering US 101 South, take a right turn up the hill. It is not marked but this will be Conzelman Road. This road will wind its way all the way to the top of the headlands with many pull outs on your left. The views will get more expansive as you go higher.

About half way up, keep an eye out on the left for an unpaved road and a small parking lot. This will be Black Sands Beach Trail. It is a short steep trail to one of only a handful of black sand beaches in the Bay Area.

Continue on Conzelman Road, you will end up first at Point Bonita Trailhead and next Point Bonita Lighthouse (active). Access is via a tunnel opened Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays, 12:30 PM to 3:30 PM. Note: from February to May, the northward migration of mother whales and their babies stay close to shore to avoid predators.

Take Field Road down the Headlands, turning left on Bunker Road. Soon you bear right and up the hill to The Marine Mammals Center. This is where sick or injured animals are nursed back to life and returned to their natural habitat once healthy again.

Adjacent is the Rodeo Lagoon, Rodeo Beach and beyond are miles and miles of headland trails. Bunker Road will take you back to US 101 via a unique, one lane tunnel.

Muir Beach

Travel North on US 101 to the US 1 exit (also known as the Shoreline Highway). There will be a left at the Arco Station and a traffic light. Do not miss this turn. The road will meander through a town-and-country area and eventually into open protected lands. Soon you will approach the entrance to Muir Beach to the left. It is a beautiful spot for a picnic, walk, or hike. It is popular on weekends and the parking lot is often full. Just beyond Muir Beach is The Pelican Inn. It looks like it just dropped in from the British Iles. It is a charming B&B, with a pub and small restaurant with a charming patio. They serve an excellent breakfast buffet on weekends. It too is popular and busy on weekends.

Do not miss the Muir Beach overlook on the left at the top of the hill going North. Walk out to the overlook perched on the cliff. Spectacular views/photos!

Stinson Beach

This is one of the best beaches in Marin. It is also a popular destination for weekend homes. It is extremely popular in good weather. Parking and crowded conditions are common on weekend and good weather. There are a handful of cafes and restaurants. We like it early in the day, on nice days off season and midweek.

Point Reyes Station

Beyond Stinson Beach is a beautiful drive that will take you to the town of Point Reyes Station. It is a charming and lively little town dating back to the early days of California. There are a handful of unique shops and restaurants, farmers markets and coffee houses. It is home to the famed Cowgirl Creamery that reinvented farm to table artisanal cheeses.

Lunch at Osteria Stellina has become a must when we visit. They serve the best pastas, pizzas, salads and deserts all sourced locally.

Point Reyes National Seashore

This is a huge area with trails, beaches, a famed lighthouse, ranch and farmlands dating back for generations.

There are elk herds and wildlife in abundance. The area is connected to the mainland by a thin piece of lowlands. The infamous San Andreas fault runs directly through these lowlands. Some day, Point Reyes may become an island.

We recently visited the area in perfect weather and shared the massive North Beach with one fisherman and his dog. We spotted two humpback whales heading north. They said “HI” leaping out of the water four times before disappearing into the sea.

Finally…

It is possible to continue North almost to the Oregon Border. There are so many gorgeous sites along the way but that would take many port postings. Enjoy!!

The Huntsman, Green Room, Elvis & Nixon, The Wave, Hologram of the King

The Huntsman: Winter’s War

This was meant to be the prequel to the famed Snow White story. It stars Charlize Theron as the evil queen, Emily Blunt, the sister and equally evil ice queen, Chris Hemworth the Huntsman and Jessica Chastain as the love interest.

All the performances are actually well done and the special effects were pretty good. So why is the film getting panned by critics and industry insiders?! Apparently, something derailed the entire production back at the studio, ultimately causing the director and the star Kristen Stewart to walk, as in, away from the project all together.

Comments like “cheesy performances” and “clumsy filmmaking” and worse are making the rounds. At the end of the day, the movie left me wanting for more.

Rating:

Green Room

Oh my!! Punk rockers perform at a neo-Nazi “club” in remote Oregon only to stumble upon something they were not meant to see. It quickly becomes a movie of horror, a bloodletting thriller of survival.

It was often difficult to watch. The action was intense and unrelenting that made the film eerily watchable. There wasn’t time in the moment to process everything that was happening so it just unfolded ready or not, like it or not.

A big surprise was the unexpected appearance of Patrick Stewart as a really good bad guy. I left the theater exhausted and somewhat stunned.

Rating:

Elvis & Nixon

“What?” was my first reaction to the movie Elvis & Nixon. I had forgotten The “King” actually did meet with President Nixon for about 40 minutes at the White House back in 1970.

Kevin Spacey morphed into his Nixon character, perfect casting. Paired with Michael Shannon as a believable Elvis. The actual conversation was never documented or recorded so the script was free to imagine what may have been.

There was also an odd, creepy undercurrent. Both men were clearly a few cards short, if you know what I mean. Yet there was enough quirkiness to make it a unique story to be sure.

Rating:

The Wave

This Norwegian film about the unstable mountains above Norway’s fantastic fiords created by glaciers thousands of years ago. They are moving, ever so slowly but surely, they are moving.

What makes this film work is the acting and the characters. These are nice likable people living in a safe affluent country surrounded but incredible beauty. This pastoral tone slips away when a huge chunk of the mountain gives way and crashes into the narrow fiord creating a massive tsunami wave.

This is a nail biting action thriller. It is well crafted and easy to watch. The English subtitles seemed easier to read than most. It was only in the theaters for a very short time. You can find it on line or pay per view.

Related Travel Note: At some point in life, a visit to the Norwegian Fiords is a must. The long days of summer is the best time to be there. It can be done by train or car but the water route is hands down the best option. There are dozens of fiords, Geiranger being the grandest. This movie experience was greatly enhanced having traveled to this unique part of the world.

Rating:

Hologram for the King

Tom Hank’s character is the focal point for this unique story about a businessman, father and divorced husband down on his luck at the end of his career. He takes a tech job is Saudi Arabia as a last stand for success.

He struggles to adapt to jetlag, business and social protocols and a lump on his back. There is a goofy Saudi driver he befriends, a wild party at the Danish Consulate, several encounters with the locals including a female doctor.

It is a fascinating and relatively accurate peek at an unusual country from a different perspective. Ultimately uplifting.

Another Travel Footnote: John and I were among the first 1000 “tourists” given visas to visit Saudi Arabia many years ago. It was a fascinating experience but not for everyone.

Rating:

Criminal, The Jungle Book, Born to be Blue, The First Monday in May, April and the Extraordinary World

Criminal

My, my, where to start. It is an action thriller. Ryan Reynolds is an undercover CIA agent being tortured for access to missile defense secrets. Kevin Costner plays a psycho criminal chosen to host Reynold’s memories and that is just the first 5 minutes.

While the premise sounds a bit goofy the story evolves into a fascinating concept. The Costner character absorbs more and more of the Reynolds memories and slowly transforms into a more normal person.

In the meantime, the bad guys are at work trying to cause mayhem and destruction of the world as we know it. This film is an action packed throw back to the 90s films with a Frankenstein twist. Great London locations. Good cast, Kevin Costner, Ryan Reynolds, Gary Oldman, Tommy Lee Jones, Gal Gadot, and Alice Eve.

Rating:

The Jungle Book

The latest Disney film production of The Jungle Book is based on Rudyard Kipling’s original book. This time filmed in a new live-action format that blends live action with computer generated images. The result is a stunning, near life like viewing experience.

You know the story, little Mowgli is raised by a pack of wolves in the great African wilds. The fierce tiger, Shere Khan, wants Mogli banished because of a bad encounter with mankind.

Mogli leaves the jungle with the guidance of the panther mentor, Bagheera. Meets bear friend, Baloo. Encounters with python, Kaa and ape King Louie. Some unexpected friends arrive to save the day.

This is sure to be a box office hit with audiences of all ages. Note for parents: some intense or scary action scenes. A superb cast of 15 voices.

Rating:

Born to be Blue

This is the true story of jazz great trumpeter Chet Baker and his life struggle with heroin addiction and stage fright. His version of jazz trumpet was unique and attracted a loyal following as a popular heartthrob.

Ethan Hawke convincingly becomes Chet Baker. He is fearless, full of energy and empathy for the character. The film is written and directed by Canadian Filmmaker Robert Budreau.

You may come away from this movie feeling like you now know this artist and what drives him. At a minimum, he was another talented person destroyed by drugs. Mr. Baker died in 1988 at the age of 58.

Rating:

The First Monday in May

This documentary is focused on the powerful world of fashion as art, the cultural power of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and the iconic power of Anna Wintour, Editor in Chief of Vogue magazine.

It is also a story about the creation and execution of the enormously successful 2015 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibit and lavish gala. The theme: China: Through the looking Glass and the behind the scenes of planning, creating, challenges, barriers, problem solving, politics, complexity and execution made for a fascinating viewer experience.

There is a lot of focus on Ms. Wintour, and some attention to the celebrity aspect of the event, but the real star was the creative genius of so many fashion designers and the incredible imagination and execution in bringing those designs to life. And then to the exhibit. I wish we had been there.

Rating:

April and the Extraordinary World

We must have missed something!? The nations critics give an overall rating of 8.2 out of 10 for this French animated feature film. The audio is by a who’s who of the French film elite. We saw the English version recorded by an equally talented American cast.

That said, the animation was OK, just OK. Certainly nothing ground breaking. The storyline was interesting, but not complex. A fantasy about a talking cat, lost parents, misguided authorities, evil mutant aliens, deadly global pollution and such. It was not clear what the point was suppose to be.

One critic said it “bestows a sense of otherworldly exhilaration”. I saw the same movie but felt it was more “Scooby Doo” than exhilarating. Much of the animated sets were creative but, frankly, quite juvenile.

We are huge fans of France, French films and French culture. No doubt we lost something in the translation.

Rating: