London, January 2016

St. Pauls and the City, London

London is a really big city.  It Boasts an enormous range of sights, museums, entertainment and a global choice of foods.  It has an excellent transportation system.  It is one of our favorite Cities in the world.  Our favorite time to visit is early fall, anytime after Schools starts.  The crowds are usually smaller and the weather generally still pleasant. Enjoy!

Food, site seeing, shopping and entertainment are highlights.  Not having to navigate the language barrier makes for a easy transition.  That said, the first time visitor will quickly recognize they are not in the US and should proceed carefully until they get comfortable with some of the basics.  Like looking both ways at intersections and cross walks for traffic flow.  Or standing on the left on escalators so people in a hurry can use the right side.

Thames

Entertainment is plentiful and can be free to very expensive.  Live theater, concerts, the opera and special concerts can be quite expensive and often sold out.  If you have ‘must see’ expectations, advance research and purchase on the internet is recommended.  But there is so much available, smaller venues or neighborhood events can be rewarding and much more affordable.

 

One of our best resources is the Half Price Ticket booth at Leicester Square (on the square, there are several ticket outlets around and off Leicester Square but only one stand alone building on the square.)  Arrive before the 9 AM opening for the best options.  Ask about matinees as well.

London has some of the most diverse choices for food and dining.  It ranges from simple fish and chips to Superstar chefs and practically every cuisine on the planet.  It is a perfect time to try something new or unavailable at home.

Do try the local pubs as they vary wildly in offerings, entertainment, history, and decor.  Food options in pubs range from the old fashioned basics to world class gastronomy.

Central London

The Tube (subway) is extensive and typically the fastest way to get around.  But also try the surface buses.  Most have been upgraded recently and are quite comfortable and cost the same as the tube.  Pick a destination or neighborhood and enjoy sightseeing you would otherwise miss using the underground.  Consider a day pass good on most forms of public transportation but be aware day passes are not valid during morning rush hour before 9 AM.  If you are planning to visit London more often, consider their Oyster Card.  A rechargeable transit smart card good on all public transportation.  The value never expires.  That is what we use.

 

The ‘must do’ list.

Westminster Abby is a Gothic church dating back to 1090 with spires 225 feet tall.  The walls and floors are a who’s who of British history including Isaac Newton, Charles Darwin, Edward the Confessor and more.  The abbey has been modified over the centuries by no less than 6 of the most prominent architects including Christopher Wren.  Long lines are common.  Hours are 9:30 AM to 3:30 PM. Admission 20 Pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

St. Paul’s

St. Paul’s Cathedral is the Anglican cathedral, seat of the bishop of London and the mother church of the Diocese of London.  It sits on the highest point of the City of London, Ludgate Hill.  It opened in 1708, it is the second largest cathedral in the world, standing 365 feet tall and was designed by Christopher Wren and Lorenzo Gafa in the Renaissance and English Baroque style.  Hours are 8:30 AM to 4:30 AM. Admission is 18 Pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

London Eye is a giant Ferris wheel on the South Bank of the River Thames.  It opened in 2000, stands 443 feet high.  Each capsule takes 30 minutes for a full rotation.  Excellent 360 degree views are best at the top.  Admission from 20 Pounds and up.  Hours: 10 :00 AM (except Christmas and January 11-22), closing times vary by season and run at least until 8:30 PM.

Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress known as the Tower of London is a UNESCO World Heritage site sitting on a 12 acre site dating back to 1078 on the River Thames.  It served as the backdrop for much of British history and has had several rolls over the centuries.  It currently houses the Crown Jewels of England.  Hours vary by day of the week and season. Generally 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM most of the year, closing an hour later in summer. Admission: 24.50 pounds per adult, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

Houses of Parliament  There are a variety of ways to visit the Houses of Parliament.  Tours, watch debates and committees, visit the Parliamentary Archives, School visits, and special events.  There are audio tours, guided tours, afternoon tea tours, tours of the Commons and Lords Chambers and the historic Westminster Hall.  Book in advance, www.parliament.uk.

Buckingham Palace (Summer only) has served as the official London residence of Britain’s sovereigns since 1837.  The state rooms are open to the public each year for most of August, September, December and January.  It is a wonderful tour that usually includes viewing the royal picture gallery collection of art and, weather permitting, a limited stroll in the rear gardens.  There is an excellent gift shop and café.  July and August Hours: 9:15 AM to 7:45 PM.  September Hours: 9:15 AM to 6:45 PM.  “Royal Day Out” Admission is Adult 37.00 pounds, or State Rooms only 21.50 pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

British Museum

British Museum (free, except special exhibits) houses one of the largest collections of art and artifacts (8 million works) in the world.  It is dedicated to human history, art and culture.  Established in 1753 it is considered one of the best museums in the world.  It houses one of the largest collection of Egyptian mummies and statues outside of Egypt.  The Rosetta stone, the Elgin Marbles, and the Magna Carta are all housed there.  It would take weeks or months to fully explore this museum.  Map your visit in advance.  Hours: 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM daily.

Windsor Castle, (Day trip) is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world.  It has been the family home of British kings and queens for over 1000 years.  It is the official residence of Her Majesty The Queen.  The castle is accessible by train from either London Waterloo or London Paddington stations.  Hours are 9:45 AM to 5:15 PM March to October, 9:45 AM to 4:15 PM November to February. There are numerous closures throughout the year.  Check for details. www.royalcollection.org.uk.  Admission is 20 Pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

The Victoria and Albert Museum, (free, except special exhibits) has one of the best and largest decorative arts collection in the world.  The museum has undergone restoration in recent years resulting in upgraded presentation of its collections.

Self Portrait, Tate Modern

The Tate Modern (free, except special exhibits) The Tate Modern is one of the greatest free modern art museums in the world.  It was created from an abandoned power plant and repurposed as a museum.  About half the exhibits are free, the rest require a separate ticket.

Tate Britain

The Tate Britain (free) is a magnificent collection of over 500 years of British artwork and sculptures in over 20 galleries.  Most notable is the sizable Henry Moore collection of sculptures and the over 300 pieces by the famed British painter JMW Turner.  Bonus:  There are numerous special event exhibitions included without extra cost, two gift shops, both excellent, a cafe serving beverages, breakfast and lunch.  There is also an award winning restaurant for lunch in a room boasting Rex Whistler murals and award winning wine list.

Queen Elizabeth II
Prince Harry and Prince William

The National Portrait Gallery (free) was founded in 1856.  It houses paintings of historical importance and famous British people.  The galleries are well organized and the paintings nicely displayed.  There are gift shops and a café.  Plan 1 to 2 hours.  Hours: 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM daily.

The Courtauld Gallery (Admission fee: 8 Pounds) adjacent to the Somerset House Museum complex is a true gem.  An outstanding collection of art from the early Renaissance to 20th century masterpieces seen no where else are not to be missed.  There is a cute cafe in the basement and an excellent gift shop across from the entrance.

For a deeper look, there are tons of specialized museums, theaters, attractions and just about anything you can imagine available.  Discovery while traveling is one of the reasons to travel and explore.  Enjoy.

Notes:

  • Avoid major attractions on holiday weekends or major holidays.  The crowds can be huge making the exhibits difficult to enjoy.  If your schedule is tight, plan to visit those attractions as early in the day as possible.
  • Choose the lesser popular attractions or farther afield destinations to travel to instead.  Large or extended families are less likely to choose those options because logistics can be more challenging.
  • Try alternative sights or destinations in lieu of the most popular and save the most popular for a midweek day if possible.  It could make all the difference in the world.

image

 

Thirteen Hours: The Secret Soliers of Benghazi, Son of Saul, Anomalisa

Thirteen Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi

benghaziApparently based on true events, this movie tells the story of 6 contracted security members, not part of the State Department or US Military, who stepped forward to defend the American diplomatic compound against repeated attacks by Islamic militants on the 11th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks.

Fact finding reveals “creative liberties” were taken in the making of the film.  There was even some “hair splitting” on some topic;  i.e., the movie claimed air support was denied.  A House Armed Services report stated air support was “unavailable”.

In any case, the movie watching experience was very good.  Good story telling, good tension, characters you could care about, and definitely some good guys you would want on your side in a real pinch.  There is quite a bit of blood and some disturbing images.

Rating: 3 globes

Son of Saul

son of saulWith all the movies made about the Holocaust, this Oscar nominated film shows a perspective not seen before.  (At least not that I am aware.)  It takes place in 1944 in the Auschwitz Concentration Camp where Hungarian Jewish prisoners were forced to incinerate the bodies and remove the ashes of their Jewish brethren.

It is a dark and painfully difficult film to watch.  It is almost incomprehensible to imagine life under those conditions.  Yet one man discovers a young boys body and tries relentlessly to arrange a proper Jewish burial, requiring the prayers of a Rabbi, which is virtually impossible under the conditions.

Side bar:  Many Hungarians on social media are calling the film and events untrue and a hoax..

Rating: 3 globes

Anomalisa

AnomalisaThis animated feature length film has enjoyed near record breaking critical accolades from film critics across the country.  Considered by some as the best animation ever.  Screenwriter Charlie Kaufman uses stop-motion animated puppets to create a life like film.

Personally, I disliked it very much.  There is nothing in the trailer that hints what the film is really about.  It is about a miserable man who apparently cannot maintain any type of decent personal relationship.  He makes his living on a conference circuit lecturing organizations about good customer service practices.

He drinks like a fish and preys on admiring groupies for sexual satisfaction.  All this is graphically on parade, stalking, nudity, sex and all.  Call me a prude on this one: guilty as charged.

Rating:  1Globe

Break Point, Concussion, Shaun the Sheep

Break Point

point breakThis film was apparently inspired by the 1991 classic of the same name starring then newbie Keanu Reeves and a youthful Patrick Swayze as leader of criminal devil surfers and Reeves as undercover officer infiltrating the surfer gang.  At the time, groundbreaking filmmaking.

This years version is not so much.  The plot is basically the same as the original movie.  It has been updated with interesting sea, alpine mountain scenes and snowboarding worthy of an audience.  The cinematography of the skiing and sky diving is worth the price of the ticket alone.  So catch this on pay per view, or on a long haul plane ride.

Rating: 2 globes

Concussion

ConcussionThis film confronts the medical diagnosis for concussions football players have endured over the course of their football playing lifetime.  The topic is not new to the sport, the NFL or the medical industry.

This film does, however, zero in on the science behind the disorder athletes often suffer from known as chronic traumatic encephalopathy which often shortens lives.  There is a fair amount of tension as the football industry tries to oppress the public awareness on the topic and its discoverer, Dr. Bennet Omalhu brilliantly played by Will Smith.

Other notable performances are David Morse as the tormented former football player Mike Webster, Alec Baldwin as NFL team Dr. Julian Bailes, and Gugu Mbatha-Raw as Dr. Omalhu’s love interest.

Overall, well done, well acted, powerful topic with  a real life connection to the reality of the football industry.

Rating: 2 globes

Shaun the Sheep

shaunNew from the creators of Wallace and Gromit, comes a full length claymation production of adventure and mayhem with virtually no dialog unless you consider the indecipherable gibberish dialog.

Over at Mossy Bottom Farms, the Farmer goes about his daily routine along with his dog Bitzer when the flock cause mischief and escape to the Big City for ‘fancy food’.

The Framer develops amnesia and forgets who he is, and somehow converts his shearing skills into a celebrity hair stylist.  In the mean time, the dog catcher is hot on the trail of the sheep.

The flock hit town with the precision of a military force.  The sheep dress in a series of camouflage and undercover dress to find the Farmer and find there way back to the Farm.  The result is a series of escapades that will make you laugh.

Nominated for a 2016 Oscar in feature length Animation category.

Rating: 3 globes

 

The Revenant, Mustang, Hateful 8

The Revenant

revenantSet in the 1820s in the wild frontier of the Pacific Northwest, this is a gritty story of survival, betrayal, and vengeance.  There are many times this film is difficult to watch and may even make you squirm in your seat or take an extra tight grip on your arm rest.

The acting is exceptional, especially Leonardo DiCaprio along with Tom Hardy as a really good bad guy.  DiCaprio won the well deserved Best Actor title in yesterday’s Golden Globe Awards.

The cinematography (by Emmanuel Lubezki) is incredible.  Nine months of filming in extreme winter conditions create the backdrop for both breathtaking and bleak scenery.

The enigmatic Director Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu delivers a film that is a powerful, unique production that will certainly garner audience approval and industry accolades.  It will be a classic.

Rating: 4 Globes

Mustang

mustangThis is the story of five sisters in a rural Turkish village and their coming of age experiences.  They are orphaned, raised by their Grandmother and overseen by their Uncle who demands strict adherence to conservative cultural behavior.

Incrementally, their home becomes a repressive island and one by one the sisters are targeted for arranged marriages.  There is still joy and laughter amongst themselves despite their situation.  There is tragedy and ultimately hope.

This may garner an Oscar nomination.  It is sweet, innocent, thought provoking, funny, frustrating, and bewildering.  This is a French production, with Turkish language and English subtitles.  In any case, it is absolutely worth seeking out either in the theaters or Pay-per-view.

Rating: 4 Globes

The Hateful Eight

hatefulThis is Quentin Tarentino’s eighth major motion picture.  I’m unclear if there is a connection to the title but there can be no doubt this is a Tarentino film.  This one is a Western, with outrageous characters, lots of twists and turns, lots of irreverent dialog, and oh, of course it wouldn’t be a Tarentino film without a healthy dose of blood, lots and lots of blood.

It has an impressive cast of characters.  Most notably, Kurt Russell doing his best John Wayne as bounty hunter; Samuel L. Jackson as Samuel L. Jackson as bounty hunter and Jennifer Jason Leigh as the ultra bad outlaw.

More notable bad guy portrayals are expertly delivered by Tim Roth, Bruce Dern, and Walton Goggins.  At three hours, you might come away exhausted.  But isn’t that what ‘pulp fiction’ stories are all about.  Oh, 70mm cinematography is off the charts good.

Rating: 3 Globes

Kenwood House

imageOnly a bit further afield from Central London and next to the village of Hamstead and it’s much adored open Heath is Kenwood House, a magnificent mansion set in expansive parklands. It is a visit you will enjoy any time of year.

The original structure dates to 1616, but was extensively expanded by the then owner William Murry, the Lord Cheif Justice and Earl of Mansfield in 1754 with the aid of architect Robert Adam.

After his death, the estate passed through several hands before finally being bought by Edward Cecil Guinness who used the House to showcase his extensive collection of art.  Ultimately he bequest the House and grounds to the English Heritage with the  condition the House and art collect remain intact and access to the public free of charge.

imageAnd so it is today.  A 15 minute underground ride to a world from the past.  The house is still in exceptional condition from its 18th Century overhaul.

The most impressive asset in the House is the extensive collection of fine art, including Rembrandt, Van Dyke, Hals, Reynolds, Gainsborough, JMW Turner and more.

imageEvery room has highly skilled docents to help visitors absorb what they are experiencing.  This extra resource really maks the visit a memorable experience.  Vistors will leave with sense of having visited a day in the life of the House as it may have been.

Especially noteworthy, this is the home to Dido Elizabeth Belle, the illegitimate daughter of Sir John Lindsey, nephew to Lord Mansfield.  This was the true basis for the feature film production Belle in recent years.

 

Let’s talk food, London, United Kingdom

It has been a few years since our last visit to London so we were anxious to see if some of our favorites were still there and thriving.

Wagamama

wagamamaSeveral locations in London.  A trailblazer a decade ago and still excellent, now a Global sensation.  Big bowls of Udon and Soba noodle soup with a variety of ingredient options.  Affordable and one of our favorites for lunch but also open continuously. $

Konaki Greek Restaurant

5 Coptic Street, London. WCIA INH

Konaki A block away from the British Museum we try to visit this at least once a visit just to check in.  We are happy to report it is still there and still authentic, and still a good value.  Charming dining room, nice menu and the 3 course menu is a great bargain at 13.95 pounds not including beverage.   We have only been for dinner. Check website for hours.  Www.konaki.co.uk. $$

Al Hamra

31/33 Shepherd Market, Mayfair, London W1Y7HR

al hamraWe make it a point to get to Al Hamra on every visit though in recent years their ‘Holiday Closure’ seems to get longer each year.  Authentic Lebanese cuisine is among the best we have enjoyed anywhere in the World.  We typically will order our favorite small dishes and add a grilled meat dish to round out the menu.  Everything we have ever ordered is excellent.  Service is excellent.  Clientele tend to dress above average.  It is not inexpensive but worth the splurg.  Open daily 11 AM continuously.  Reservations are recommended.  $$$

Bombay Palace

50 Cannaught Street, London W2 2AA

Bombay PalaceAmong the best Indian food anywhere with 10 locations around the world, three in the US (New York, Beverly Hills, and Washington DC). The quality classic dishes are prepared with the best ingredients and the spice to your taste.  We think the lunch represents the best value. Service is consistent with the quality.  Reservations suggested.  Www.bombay-palace.co.uk  $$$

Norfolk Arms

Corner of Leigh and Sandwich, Saint Pancras, London WC1H 9EP

norfolk_armsThis neighborhood pub reinvented itself with all the trappings of a typical pub but with a whole lot more.  Upgraded artisan brews and other libations include an impressive wine list and several daily offerings from an authentic sangria to Grappas and beyond.

The menu changes daily offering Spanish style tapas prepared to perfection.  On this visit we sampled bruschetta with Spanish blue cheese, toasted walnuts and wild honey.  It was awesome!  Their version of saganaki featured a Greek cheese blended into a spread served with toasted pita bread wedges. We also sampled amazing fried pork bellies and killer chicken wings.  Www.norfolkarms.co.uk  $$

 

 

This weeks movies.

Star Wars, The Force Awakens

We saw this again last week in Milwaukee with the little ones, 8 and 10.  We loved it as much and more the second time around.  And so did the kids!  It seems they have inherited a passion for the cinema.  Yippee!  Years of fun to look forward to. The Force looks like they will be with us for a while.  What fun!

Rating (repeated): 4 Globes

Joy

joyJennifer Lawerence and Bradley Cooper just have great chemistry together.  Add Robert DeNero and the true to life QVC success story and you have the frame work for a very good story.  That said, the telling of the story is fundamental to the film actually connecting with the audience.  This one works.

There is a fair amount of drama and trauma throughout this film that can cause some angst.  Divorce, in fighting, greed, betrayal, deceit, cheating and perhaps too few moments of joy.

Nominated for two Golden Gobes, it could muster interest from the Academy.  I liked it, a lot, but couldn’t love it.

As a side bar, Melissa Rivers delivered a hauntingly impressive depiction of her Mother.  Kudos Melissa!

Rating: 2 Globes.

The Lady in the Van

ladyA virtual who’s who of British actors qued up for a cameo or two along with the star performances from Maggie Smith and Alex Jennings.  Ms. Smith plays the perpetually down and out homeless character clinging to a ramshackled van between herself and the street.

Alex Jennings plays his character as a kind hearted, yet an unnerving dual personality type that somehow works for this comedic yet befuddling story.  There are moments of laughter and moments of painful reality.

Maggie Smith is one of my favorite actors.  I liked the movie a lot but felt continuously uncomfortable about the real world connection of the subject matter.  Perhaps that was the point after all.

Rating: 2 Globes.

Novello Theater, Momma Mia, London, United Kingdom

Mamma Mia!

mamma miaThe long running musical Mamma Mia has attracted audiences for decades.  Its catchy Abba playlist set in the Greek Islands and the comedic love triangle plus one has become a classic.  This was our third viewing over time and possibly the most rewarding.

Perhaps it’s because it is playing in one of our favorite Cities in the World, London.  Or maybe it is because the production at the charming, four tier, West End Novello Theater just made it feel more intimate.

What caught our attention was the surprisingly large number of children, from four to teens and older.  And when they liked something they heard, they leapt to their feet and danced their tootsies off.  Conversely, we spotted many  seniors you might not expect to be up shaking it around, but there They were!

And why not, it is a classic, funny, charming and a reminder of the value of young at heart.

Rating: 4 Globes.

Our Favorite Travel Destinations on water, Part 2

Fjords of Norway

What are fjords?  They were created by massive glaciers that carved massive u-shaped canyons of rock over 3 million years ago.Bergen2                                                                  Bergen.

There are several ways to experience the 100s of fjords in Norway.  By land, Oslo is the Capital with international flights, and is worthy of a few days touring.  Then travel by car or better yet, train to Bergen, Norway’s second city and gateway to the biggest and most impressive of the big three fjords.  Don’t miss the charming city of Flam.

There are driving and train itineraries that combine one or many daytrips.  The road system is well developed and offers extensive access to many fjords while the big ships tend to focus on a few of the best.  The benefit is more time to explore village life, the spectacular scenery away from the fjords and of course a slower viewing experience of the fjords themselves.

The best way to experience these incredibly beautiful ocean canyons is best seen by water. The range of options vary from the large ocean cruise liners to small intimate local watercrafts.

fjordDo not miss the “king of the fjords”, Sognefjord.  At 127 miles long and the deepest at 4,294 feet deep, the sheer rock walls may blot out the sun or the many waterfalls fall hundreds of feet to the sea.  The mighty Geirangerfjord and Naereyfjord are Unesco Hertitage sights with waterfalls and little Bays with villages of typical red buildings and charming white churches.  On land there are many touring options.  One of the most popular is skiing world class slopes with 30 feet of snow in the middle of summer.cliff

The best time to go is May to September during the longest days of sunshine.  Winter is also possible offering a stormy and unique look without the crowds.

Resources:  www.fjords.com, www.rccl.com, www.visitnorwat.com

Stockholm Archipelago stockholm

There are over 24,000 islands that make up the Stockholm Archipelago.  Start your journey with any itinerary that includes Stockholm, the capital of Sweden.  We suggest at least three days, the more days the better.  Stockholm will not disappoint.

stockholm archipeligo 2At anytime, carve out some time for one or more day trips to the more popular islands of  Finnhamm, Grinda, Nattaro or Uto.  There are one to five day passes if you would like to use public transportation.  All have quaint villages for lunch, snacks or fishing supplies.

Just wander or hire a guide to take you to places of your particular interest.  There are dozens of islands with bright red summer homes, historic palaces and castles.  There are also expansive forests, fields of flowers and long sandy beaches.stockholm beach

If you are traveling by cruise ship, do check out the time of the sailing into or out of the Archipeligo.  Find the best upper deck in the front of the ship for a bird’s eye view from above the islands.  Alternatively, local Steamboat cruises run all Summer and Fall.

stockholm steamshipYou will be enchanted what ever your choice.  Best time to go is May to September for the long warm Summer/Fall days

Resources: www.waxholmsbolaget.com, www.stockholmarchipeligo.com, www.visitstockholm.com

St. Petersburg from the Neva River

St. Petersburg bridgeThis journey can be done in just a few hours and may be the highlight of a trip to St. Petersburg.  It was such a memorable experience, it had to make this list, especially now that all the major sites have been restored to their original glory.  Plan at least a few additional days for the must see sights you should first see from this water journey.

St. Petersburg churchDepending on the service provider, your boat will most likely begin on the Moika Canal, St.Petersburg primary commercial corridor before sailing into the broad Neva River where you will be greeted by two bridges with bronzed lions, griffins and chariots. To the left bank will be a skyline of churches and palaces.  To the right will be the expansive baroque Winter Palace, formerly the residence of the tsars, now part of the Hermitage Museum.  This will be one of the ‘must see’ list, plan a half day just for this museum.

st_petersburg winter palaceNow, across the river again will be the gleaming white Stock Exchange (now a navel museum and on you ‘must do’ list) and the Peter and Paul Cathedral, another ‘must tour’ sometime in your trip along with a visit to the Peter and Paul Fortress and a day trip to the Peterhof Palace and its fantastic gardens.

Peterhof palacePlan to travel between May and July to experience the ‘White Nights’.  Book everything in advance, the local bureaucracy is inconsistent and often unreliable.  Another note, do NOT drink the water anywhere.  Remember good bug spray as it will be peak season for those critters too.

Resources: www.russia-travel.com, www.russiagateway.co.uk, www.saint-Petersburg.com

Danube, Budapest to the Black Sea

The more popular route for sailing the Danube is Passau, Germany to Budapest adding Vienna and Bratislava along the way.  It is a great trip, but alternatively sailing from Budapest to the Black Sea reveals a very different face of the Danube and much of Southeastern Europe.

budapestYou can cruise this route in reverse but we liked the progressively intriguing stops going West to East.  Add a few days in Budapest in the beginning because there is a lot to explore.  We also added four days in Transylvania at the end just because it was close by and we may not be back in that part of the world anytime soon.  Transylvania, by the way, was one of the highpoints of this trip.  Think Swiss Alps but at bargain prices for five star touring, food and lodging.

transylvaniaOur stops in Croatia and Serbia included small towns of Osijek, Vukovar and Novi Sad each with access to town centers and historical sites, ancient and not so ancient wars after the collapse of Yugoslavia.

belgradeBelgrade was an impressive stop.  Lots of history and culture but the agro tourism was the highlight for the day.  New and savory farm to table food and super affordable local wines.  The scenery just got better and better the farther into the trip.  The mountains just kept getting closer and closer until it became a canyon, completely unexpected.

Constanza, Romania was our last port on the river cruise.  A beguiling seaport, a mix of East and West, a mix of cultures and civilivations.  On the other hand, Bucharest was the bustling, thriving capital of Romania with all the trappings of Western Europe.  This trip was a pleasant surprise and a lot of fun.

bucharestResources:  www.oattravel.com, www.vikingriverscruises.com, www.avalonwaterways.com

 

Dalmation Coast

There are many tour operators and ferries that offer sailings around the Adriactic coast.  Many of our favorite stops are listed below.  Many folks make a whole vacation at just one or two destinations.  The area is blessed with a long sunny, warm season from May through October, August can be quite crowded.  There are plenty of hotels, resorts and tour operators.  We spent 3 weeks island and town hopping, and we are ready to do it all over again but perhaps longer and slower.

The Dalmation coast today consists of the coast lines of Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania.  It’s history dates back to pre-Grecian times.  It is generally unknown to Western travelers.  Those who like the coastal areas of Greece, Italy or most of the Mediterranean are likely to love this region on the Adriactic Sea.

The island of Hvar is famous for its lavender fields, pine covered hills, quaint villages and Venetian styled buildings on the harbor.

hvar

The island town of Vis is proud of its scenery, excellent wine, national park and diving sites.

visThe isle of Brac is world famous for its stone quarry (used extensively for the US White House) and its Golden Cape, a haven for sun worshippers and wind surfers.

bracEven the little village of Zadar boosts an awesome sea organ that is linked to a state of the art computer system.  As you listen to the sea organ and walk on the plaza, the computer responds to your footstep with a stunning light show underfoot.zadar

Kotor sits at the end of a fjord-like inlet guarded by a tiny manmade islet Our Lady of the Rocks and its charming church.  The town itself is nestled between the sea and the mountains.  it is a vibrant town of 13,000 +/- people, a lively town center with lots of places to eat, drink and relax.  An ancient wall still survives the ages.

kotor The village of Korcula is connected to larger island famous for its beaches.  The town is known for its medieval walls and towers.  Central square is home to the Cathedral of St. Mark dating back to the 14th Century.  It feels like a bit of a time warp with its narrow lanes and pathways, tiny shops, and medieval everything.

korculaThe Old City of Dubrovnik is one of the most outstanding cities in the world.  It’s history and perserverance have helped the City to become a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It is truly a walled city with an incredible setting and port.  It seamlessly housed Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries, palaces, courtyards, squares and fountains.  It is alive with its residences and visitors alike.  Do walk the walls of the City for the breathtaking views and overlooks.  Oh, the food and wine is exceptional almost everywhere.

dubrovnikLast but not least, is the charming city of Split.  It has an impressive harbor location with a wonderful promenade, a Roman palace dating to the 4th century, an array of bars, cafes, restaurants, galleries, cathedrals, hotels, beaches and overlooks with fantastic views.

splitResources:  www.croatia.hr, www.montenegro.com, www.ricksteves.com

December 20, 2015

Star Wars: The Force Awakens (Episode VII) Star wars awakening

Updated special effects, CHECK.  New scary Darth Vader, CHECK.  Great sound track that sounds both familiar and new at the same time, CHECK.  New cast of characters melds well with original characters, CHECK.

This Episode has certainly set the stage for a new series of Star Wars movies with new storylines, characters, and upgraded special effects for both old and new audiences.

New to the franchise, Director JJ Abrams retains the Star Wars roots but with a fresh next century twist.  It is a very forward focused storyline and I won’t give away any of it.  You’ll have to see it for yourself.  The energy in the theaters was absolutely electric and tangible.  It is 135 minutes long but you will hardly notice.  We saw it in 2D, reports are the 3D and IMAX version is worth the extra cost.

Rating: 4 Globes.

Youth

youthLet’s start with the Actors, Michael Caine, Harvey Keitel, Rachel Weisz, Paul Dano, Madalina Ghenea (all of her) and Jane Fonda round out the tremendous cast of characters and equally impressive performances.

Filmed in Switzerland, the settings and backdrop were key to the look and feel of the part spa, part old folks home, part seniors center/hotel/rehab center.  The storyline follows the friendship between an aging Maestro and a equally aged Movie Director and their entourages.  It is filled with twists, turns and surprises.

It can be a bit confusing and I wasn’t always sure what was going on but it still was a visual feast.  Jane Fonda’s performance alone was worth the price of admission.  The ending is quite spectacular.

Rating:  2 Globes.

Beast of No Nationbeast of no nation

Set in West Africa, this is a haunting study of the manipulation and manufactured loyalty during the turbulent years of political and social unrest when boys and young men were brainwashed into hardened soldiers committing unthinkable atrocities under the control of warlords.

It was painfully difficult to watch in spite of the exceptional cinematography and the skillful portrayals from these young actors.  Idris Elba plays the charismatic Commander who transforms innocence into killing machines.

While it takes place in an “unnamed country” it is a grim reminder of events in West Africa not too many years ago.  It is a story that needed to be told.  Nominated for a Golden Globe, Supporting Actor.

Rating: 3 Globes.