Category: Travel

Erice

This medieval town feels like it has been in a time capsule.  It is surrounded by walls.  It sits on a mountain-top overlooking the sea on one side and the vast landscape on the other.

We visited on a Monday in February somewhat early and much of the town seems closed.  Somehow this added to the charm.  It was charming and picturesque.  The local Postal lady delivering mail from house to house on the narrowest of cobblestone streets.  The occasional shop keeper opening for the day.  A charming café offering a hot cup of coffee for a few moments out of the chilly morning wind.

It was well worth the extra time to seek this out.  I can imagine it crowded and bustling in the height of summer and reflecting on the peace and tranquility of seeing in in the off season.

Segesta

This ancient home of the Elymians, one of Sicily’s indigenous peoples, later populated by the Greeks.  The highlight of the area is the unfinished Doric temple proudly standing on a hilltop surrounded by an idyllic setting of vineyards, olive groves and expansive countryside.

Mazara Del Vallo

Not far from Segesta is Mazara del Vallo, a family run agriturismo, Tenute Pispisa Segesta.  The facility hosts lodging, dining, and special events in a spectacular setting.  We had an amazing lunch made from all farm grown and prepared ingredients highlighted by exceptional wines produced on site.  We bought a couple Afterwards we chose to hike back to the main road along the acres of vineyards, olive groves adjacent forests.

Tenute Pispisa Segesta, www.tenutepispisasegesta.com, info@tenutepispisasegesta.com

Mazara

Mazara is a multicultural city with an impressive Duomo.  There is a quaint little museum housing a Greek bronze statue dating back 2000 years recovered by local fishermen from the nearby sea.

Mazara is also the home to a thriving “Kasbah” where over 3000 Arabs and Tunisians work and live.  The area is noted for its artisans tile work.

Part 3 coming soon!

Mothya Island

Piazza Armerina

Ragusa

Catania

Mt. Etna

We piggy backed our tour of Sicily with a week on our own in Rome.  (See TRAVEL: Rome post, dated 4/7/2016.)

Alitalia has several flights a day between from Rome (and other major Italian cities) and Palermo and Catania, Sicily.

The views upon approach were strikingly beautiful.  City and mountains meet the azure seas.  The compact airport was easy to navigate.  A taxi from the airport to central Palermo was about 50 Euros.  We opted for a first class shuttle bus that had a stop one block from our hotel costing only 12 Euros each.

The first impression at this new destination was a bit disappointing.  After leaving the Airport the coastal highway presented a series of old, crumbling industrial sites and miles of modest to dilapidated ocean front homes.

Palermo

As we got closer to Palermo the roads and images improved.  Suddenly Palermo appeared to be an extensive series of midrise housing blocks with commercial or retail on the first floor, somewhat void of any historic character.

Finally we arrived at a central square overlooking one of two Opera houses, our stop.  As it turned out, our Plaza Opera Hotel was centrally located one block from the most important shopping street in Palermo and an easy walk to restaurants and the old part of town.  The hotel, while compact, has a charming breakfast room and a hearty breakfast, a cute tiny bar, comfortable modern rooms with all the amenities.  There is a roof deck open in good weather.  Service was excellent.  Most staff spoke excellent English.  Plaza Opera Hotel, via Nicolo Gallo, 2, 90139 Palermo, Italia.  info@hotelplazaopera.com or www.the hotel sphere.com.

As we spent the afternoon getting acquainted with our new home for the next few days, we made a wonderful discovery that lasted the rest of our trip:  prices were 30% to 70% cheaper than most of Western Europe.  A liter of bottled water was 25 cents and good wines were 3 to 5 Euros.  Perfectly satisfying whites and reds at bargain prices.  You could spend more but given the quality and selection, we were happy campers.

Palermo: Old Quarter

This area is the ancient part of Palermo and the confluence of the many nations that ruled this city over the centuries, predominately Christian and Islam.  This well preserved area of the city is filled with buildings dating back centuries.  Most are well preserved or restored.  The cathedral was first a mosque before being expanded and converted to a church during the Norman period.  It has a look and feel different from most of Europe but that is part of the charm and fascination.

Monreale

Overlooking Palermo is suburban Monreale and its 12th Century Norman Cathedral.  Nearly every surface of the interior is covered in mosaics of biblical scenes in rich colors and lots of gold.

After returning to Palermo’s historic quarter for a walk through the traditional marketplace, we lunched on roasted vegetables, pasta and pastries.

Castelbuono & Cefalu

Sandwiched between the bay and a massive granite cliff is the bucolic town of Cefalu.  Its Romanesque cathedral dates back to 1131.

Set in the Madonie Mountains, Castelbuono is a well preserved medieval town complete with 14th century castle embattlements and towers.

Part 2…Coming Soon

Mazara Del Vallo

Mothya Island

Piazza Armerina

Ragusa

Catania

Mt. Etna

Marin County is just North of San Francisco across the Golden Gate Bridge.  With just slightly more than 250,000 people, it is one of the least densely populated counties in the Bay Area metropolitan area.

It is also one of the most beautiful counties on the West coast.  It has spectacular headlands, dozens of beaches, numerous redwood groves including the celebrated Muir Woods, Mount Tamalpais, and the Point Reyes National Seashore.

The good news is you can be in incredibly beautiful coastlands 5 minutes North of San Francisco.  The bad news is it is not a secret anymore.  Travel during weekends after 9 AM and you will find yourself in painfully slow traffic.  So travel to the area on week days or get up early on weekends and get on the road by 7 AM to avoid the crowds, especially in the summer and any warm days.

Here are some of our favorite spots.

Marin Headlands

From the City, go North over the Golden Gate Bridge (US 101 N).  As soon as you cross the bridge be in the far right lane and take the first exit, Vista Point.  There is a large parking lot and excellent views and photo ops of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge.

When ready exit where you entered (right turn only) and stay in the right lane which will be the Alexander Avenue exit.  As soon as you exit there will be an immediate left hand turn going under the freeway and then Southbound back towards the bridge.  Just before the entering US 101 South, take a right turn up the hill.  It is not marked but this will be Conzelman Road.  This road will wind its way all the way to the top of the headlands with many pull outs on your left.  The views will get more expansive as you go higher.

About half way up, keep an eye out on the left for an unpaved road and a small parking lot.  This will be Black Sands Beach Trail.  It is a short steep trail to one of only a handful of black sand beaches in the Bay Area.

Continue on Conzelman Road, you will end up first at Point Bonita Trailhead and next Point Bonita Lighthouse (active).  Access is via a tunnel opened Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays, 12:30 PM to 3:30 PM.  Note: from February to May, the northward migration of mother whales and their babies stay close to shore to avoid predators.

Take Field Road down the Headlands, turning left on Bunker Road.  Soon you bear right and up the hill to The Marine Mammals Center.  This is where sick or injured animals are nursed back to life and returned to their natural habitat once healthy again.

Adjacent is the Rodeo Lagoon, Rodeo Beach and beyond are miles and miles of headland trails.  Bunker Road will take you back to US 101 via a unique, one lane tunnel.

Muir Beach

Travel North on US 101 to the US 1 exit (also known as the Shoreline Highway).  There will be a left at the Arco Station and a traffic light.  Do not miss this turn.  The road will meander through a town-and-country area and eventually into open protected lands.  Soon you will approach the entrance to Muir Beach to the left.  It is a beautiful spot for a picnic, walk, or hike.  It is popular on weekends and the parking lot is often full.  Just beyond Muir Beach is The Pelican Inn.  It looks like it just dropped in from the British Iles.  It is a charming B&B, with a pub and small restaurant with a charming patio.  They serve an excellent breakfast buffet on weekends.  It too is popular and busy on weekends.

Do not miss the Muir Beach overlook on the left at the top of the hill going North.  Walk out to the overlook perched on the cliff.  Spectacular views/photos!

Stinson Beach

This is one of the best beaches in Marin.  It is also a popular destination for weekend homes.  It is extremely popular in good weather.  Parking and crowded conditions are common on weekend and good weather.  There are a handful of cafes and restaurants.  We like it early in the day, on nice days off season and midweek.

Point Reyes Station

Beyond Stinson Beach is a beautiful drive that will take you to the town of Point Reyes Station.  It is a charming and lively little town dating back to the early days of California.  There are a handful of unique shops and restaurants, farmers markets and coffee houses.  It is home to the famed Cowgirl Creamery that reinvented farm to table artisanal cheeses.

Lunch at Osteria Stellina has become a must when we visit.  They serve the best pastas, pizzas, salads and deserts all sourced locally.

Point Reyes National Seashore

This is a huge area with trails, beaches, a famed lighthouse, ranch and farmlands dating back for generations.

There are elk herds and wildlife in abundance.  The area is connected to the mainland by a thin piece of lowlands.  The infamous San Andreas fault runs directly through these lowlands.  Some day, Point Reyes may become an island.

We recently visited the area in perfect weather and shared the massive North Beach with one fisherman and his dog.  We spotted two humpback whales heading north.  They said “HI” leaping out of the water four times before disappearing into the sea.

Finally…

It is possible to continue North almost to the Oregon Border.  There are so many gorgeous sites along the way but that would take many port postings.  Enjoy!!

This is the first post in a series reflecting on a recent trip to Rome.  Two weeks in Sicily will follow in additional posts.  Enjoy!

J&J

Air

With early booking and plenty of research with SKYTEAM partners, we used Delta miles to book a KLM flight from San Francisco to Rome via Amsterdam in Business Class.

The KLM experience was delightful.  Service was warm and attentive.  The food and wine selections were extensive and excellent.  The cabin was quiet.  The entertainment system extensive with 15 inch screens.  The angle flat seats were less than ideal yet quite comfortable overall.  Rating:

NOTE:  During peak air traffic, many European airports do not have enough arrival or departure gates to accommodate the load.  Some flights use tarmac shuttle buses for arrivals and departures.  This was the case connecting in Amsterdam and again arriving in Rome.

Hotel

We love the Hotel Due Torri,

Vicolo del Leonetto, 23, Roma, Itallia.  E-mail: info@hotelduetorriroma.com

It is a small, well run hotel in the center of the old city.  We have stayed several times over the years and the location is ideal, walking distance to most of the key sites.  (Vatican, Piazza Navona, Campo De Fiori, Pantheon, Spanish Steps.) The rooms are compact to comfortable depending on the floor and exposure.  We like the fourth floor with a small balcony that provides a rooftop view of the neighborhood.  There is an elevator, albeit tiny (typical of Rome/Italy).

Room rates are moderate and vary with the seasons.  Rates include a hearty continental breakfast.  The staff speak English and are generous with dining and touring suggestions.  The neighborhood is packed with stores, shops and dining options.  Overall rating:

Note: The street is very narrow.  Some Taxis may not be able to drive the last block to the hotel.  This means you may need to carry or roll your luggage over the cobblestone street/sidewalks one block.

Food

Central Rome is loaded with great food options with many close to the hotel.  Currently the prices are affordable due to the strong dollar and the less than robust economy in Italy.  Here are three of our favorites close to the hotel.

Obica Parlamento, Piazza di Firenza, 28, 00186 Roma, Italy

Modern, open kitchen, mozzarella bar, house cured meats, awesome pizza, pasta.  Great outdoor dining terrace.  Exceptional service.  Great wine list.  10% discount for Due Torri guests (three blocks from the hotel).  We dined there three times.  Loved it!  Rating:

La Campana, Vicolo della Campana, 18, 00186 Roma, Italy

Traditional trattoria with 500 year history.  Serves traditional classic seasonal Roman dishes.  Don’t miss the fried artichokes or zucchini blossoms when they are in season.  Huge anti pasta bar.  All pastas, fish, roast pork and deserts are excellent.  Extensive wine list.  Some waiters speak English.  It can get crowded at peak times.  We eat here every time we are in Rome. Reservations suggested.  Rating:

Brassai, Via di Panico, 28 (Via dei Coronari), 00186 Roma, Italy

We fell in love with this little café and bar.  It is small, compact, local.  Great place for lunch, a break, a drink.   We ate there twice.  Pasta, pizza, wine are all excellent.  House made tiramisu is not to be missed! Rating:

What to see and how to see it!

Central Rome is relatively compact BUT it is also a big sprawling city.  That’s why a central hotel is key to your visit.  This visit we bought a multiday pass on a hop on, hop off tour bus.  (We actually used the bus as our local transportation.) There are several bus companies.  We chose the big red bus because it ran most often (every 10-15 minutes).  Most routes include all the major sites.   Some use alternate routes on Sundays.

Avoid any restaurant with “barkers” trying to draw you in and especially those with menus printed in 6 languages.  Good local restaurants do not need such tactics to draw customers.

Also, mind your belongings.  Wallets and purses should be securely and safely out of sight.

Piazza Navona

A must see and popular Piazza in Rome was originally a stadium built in the first century.  Today built on the original footprint, the Piazza is a popular gathering spot for locals and visitors alike.  Most buildings are of the Baroque architecture.  The centerpiece is the Fountain of Four Rivers with an Egyptian obelisk reaching for the sky. Take time to stroll the piazza, people watch, enjoy a café or glass of wine.  Rating:

Campo de’ Fiori

Just South of the Piazza Navona is the Campo de’ Fiori which literally means, “field of flowers” as the area was actually a meadow during the Middle Ages.  Today it is especially lively on Sundays when it becomes a bustling marketplace.  The evenings it becomes one of Rome’s nightlife centers.  Rating:

Pantheon

This amazing structure was built by Emperor Hadrian in 126 AD.  It is one of the best preserved of all Roman buildings.  It was truly an structural marvel of its day and remains so today.  The height of the oculus (the opening in the dome) and the diameter of the interior circle are exactly the same, 142 feet (or 43.3 meters).  Today it is still the worlds largest unreinforced concrete dome.

The adjacent plaza, fountain with another obelisk is surrounded by shops, cafes, and carriage rides.  This is a must see location.  See it during the day and again at night.  It will feel like two different places.  Rating:

Coliseum

Arguably the most recognized monument of Rome, it was the largest Amphitheatre ever built, 80 AD.  The adjacent ruins of the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill are worth the time and energy.  This was the center of the universe for centuries.  The Arch of Constantine is a magnificent monument built in 312 AD.  Plan to spend at least a day here.  Be for warned, the entire area is a camera magnet.  Be prepared for lots of editing once you get home. Rating:

Spanish Steps 

Built in 1725 to bridge the Piazza di Spagna with the Piazza Trinita dei Monti and church by the same name at the top of the steep slope.  There is yet another Egyptian oblelisk crowning the staircase.  This is a popular gathering spot for Romans and visitors alike.  Sunset views from the top are inspiring.  Strolling is an art form here.  Across for the Piazza di Spagna is the shopping mecca of the via Condotti and the adjacent streets in most directions.  This is the center of fashion and design in Italy. Rating:

Galleria Borghese

This is one of the world’s most amazing venues and collections of art.  Set in the Borghese Gardens and the Villa Borghese Pinciana housing 15th to 18th century artworks by Bernini, Caravaggio, Titian, Gian Lorenzo, Rubens and many more.

Reservations are essential.  All tickets are timed entries.  This really helps keep the flow of visitors to a steady stream which avoids overcrowding.  Book online (tosc.it) to save time and frustration.  Ticket price is 11 Euro per person.  Rating: 

Vatican and Museum

Vatican City is its own country!  It is also the home of the Pope, the leader of the Catholic world.  Visiting the Vatican requires an understanding of the logistics and an understanding of “must see” sights. It is best broken up into multiple in depth visits.  It can also be done in one long day.  Here’s how.

Buy tickets for the Vatican Museum online (mv.vatican.va).  Select a date and time, 16 Euro per person.  We suggest pick a 9:00AM time, opening time.  We did.  We took a cab from our hotel to the museum entrance. (Well worth it, because the museum is all the way around the back of Vatican City.  At 8:30 in the morning the line for tickets was almost a mile long.)  We hopped out of the cab, went to the front door, zipped through security, scanned our online tickets and in we went.  About two minutes.

It is worth downloading the floor plans so you have a sense of what you want to see.  The most popular routes are clearly marked.  The amount of galleries and volume of articles can be overwhelming so do some homework so you know where you want to spend time.  Be prepared to be overwhelmed.

After an hour or two, you will most likely be approaching the Sistine Chapel.  It will undoubtedly be crowded.  No talking is allowed.  No flash is allowed anywhere.  Do shift from one side of the room to the other to enjoy all angles of the Michelangelo frescoes.

Important: When you are ready, keep an eye out for the exit to St. Peters.  This is a group exit, but can still use it.  Exit is located in the far right side corner of the chapel, opposite your entry.  If you miss this exit you will most likely have to go a long way around to get back to St. Peters.  This exit will get you directly into the Basilica.

Once in St. Peters you will be free to wander most of the church.  Some chapels are for prayer only.  Explore as much as you are interested.  It is truly one of the most amazing buildings in the world.

Rating: 

Once you exit, you will be in St. Peter’s Square.  Lots of photo ops.  By now, it will be time for a late lunch.  We suggest walk to the first bridge on your right and cross over the river.  Take your first left over the bridge and then second right and look for Brassai (noted in FOOD above).

London is a really big city.  It Boasts an enormous range of sights, museums, entertainment and a global choice of foods.  It has an excellent transportation system.  It is one of our favorite Cities in the world.  Our favorite time to visit is early fall, anytime after Schools starts.  The crowds are usually smaller and the weather generally still pleasant. Enjoy!

Food, site seeing, shopping and entertainment are highlights.  Not having to navigate the language barrier makes for a easy transition.  That said, the first time visitor will quickly recognize they are not in the US and should proceed carefully until they get comfortable with some of the basics.  Like looking both ways at intersections and cross walks for traffic flow.  Or standing on the left on escalators so people in a hurry can use the right side.

Entertainment is plentiful and can be free to very expensive.  Live theater, concerts, the opera and special concerts can be quite expensive and often sold out.  If you have ‘must see’ expectations, advance research and purchase on the internet is recommended.  But there is so much available, smaller venues or neighborhood events can be rewarding and much more affordable.

One of our best resources is the Half Price Ticket booth at Leicester Square (on the square, there are several ticket outlets around and off Leicester Square but only one stand alone building on the square.)  Arrive before the 9 AM opening for the best options.  Ask about matinees as well.

London has some of the most diverse choices for food and dining.  It ranges from simple fish and chips to Superstar chefs and practically every cuisine on the planet.  It is a perfect time to try something new or unavailable at home.

Do try the local pubs as they vary wildly in offerings, entertainment, history, and decor.  Food options in pubs range from the old fashioned basics to world class gastronomy.

The Tube (subway) is extensive and typically the fastest way to get around.  But also try the surface buses.  Most have been upgraded recently and are quite comfortable and cost the same as the tube.  Pick a destination or neighborhood and enjoy sightseeing you would otherwise miss using the underground.  Consider a day pass good on most forms of public transportation but be aware day passes are not valid during morning rush hour before 9 AM.  If you are planning to visit London more often, consider their Oyster Card.  A rechargeable transit smart card good on all public transportation.  The value never expires.  That is what we use.

The ‘must do’ list.

Westminster Abby is a Gothic church dating back to 1090 with spires 225 feet tall.  The walls and floors are a who’s who of British history including Isaac Newton, Charles Darwin, Edward the Confessor and more.  The abbey has been modified over the centuries by no less than 6 of the most prominent architects including Christopher Wren.  Long lines are common.  Hours are 9:30 AM to 3:30 PM. Admission 20 Pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

St. Paul’s Cathedral is the Anglican cathedral, seat of the bishop of London and the mother church of the Diocese of London.  It sits on the highest point of the City of London, Ludgate Hill.  It opened in 1708, it is the second largest cathedral in the world, standing 365 feet tall and was designed by Christopher Wren and Lorenzo Gafa in the Renaissance and English Baroque style.  Hours are 8:30 AM to 4:30 AM. Admission is 18 Pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

London Eye is a giant Ferris wheel on the South Bank of the River Thames.  It opened in 2000, stands 443 feet high.  Each capsule takes 30 minutes for a full rotation.  Excellent 360 degree views are best at the top.  Admission from 20 Pounds and up.  Hours: 10 :00 AM (except Christmas and January 11-22), closing times vary by season and run at least until 8:30 PM.

Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress known as the Tower of London is a UNESCO World Heritage site sitting on a 12 acre site dating back to 1078 on the River Thames.  It served as the backdrop for much of British history and has had several rolls over the centuries.  It currently houses the Crown Jewels of England.  Hours vary by day of the week and season. Generally 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM most of the year, closing an hour later in summer. Admission: 24.50 pounds per adult, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

Houses of Parliament  There are a variety of ways to visit the Houses of Parliament.  Tours, watch debates and committees, visit the Parliamentary Archives, School visits, and special events.  There are audio tours, guided tours, afternoon tea tours, tours of the Commons and Lords Chambers and the historic Westminster Hall.  Book in advance, www.parliament.uk.

Buckingham Palace (Summer only) has served as the official London residence of Britain’s sovereigns since 1837.  The state rooms are open to the public each year for most of August, September, December and January.  It is a wonderful tour that usually includes viewing the royal picture gallery collection of art and, weather permitting, a limited stroll in the rear gardens.  There is an excellent gift shop and café.  July and August Hours: 9:15 AM to 7:45 PM.  September Hours: 9:15 AM to 6:45 PM.  “Royal Day Out” Admission is Adult 37.00 pounds, or State Rooms only 21.50 pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

British Museum (free, except special exhibits) houses one of the largest collections of art and artifacts (8 million works) in the world.  It is dedicated to human history, art and culture.  Established in 1753 it is considered one of the best museums in the world.  It houses one of the largest collection of Egyptian mummies and statues outside of Egypt.  The Rosetta stone, the Elgin Marbles, and the Magna Carta are all housed there.  It would take weeks or months to fully explore this museum.  Map your visit in advance.  Hours: 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM daily.

Windsor Castle, (Day trip) is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world.  It has been the family home of British kings and queens for over 1000 years.  It is the official residence of Her Majesty The Queen.  The castle is accessible by train from either London Waterloo or London Paddington stations.  Hours are 9:45 AM to 5:15 PM March to October, 9:45 AM to 4:15 PM November to February. There are numerous closures throughout the year.  Check for details. www.royalcollection.org.uk.  Admission is 20 Pounds, discounts for Seniors, children and families.

The Victoria and Albert Museum, (free, except special exhibits) has one of the best and largest decorative arts collection in the world.  The museum has undergone restoration in recent years resulting in upgraded presentation of its collections.

The Tate Modern (free, except special exhibits) The Tate Modern is one of the greatest free modern art museums in the world.  It was created from an abandoned power plant and repurposed as a museum.  About half the exhibits are free, the rest require a separate ticket.

The Tate Britain (free) is a magnificent collection of over 500 years of British artwork and sculptures in over 20 galleries.  Most notable is the sizable Henry Moore collection of sculptures and the over 300 pieces by the famed British painter JMW Turner.  Bonus:  There are numerous special event exhibitions included without extra cost, two gift shops, both excellent, a cafe serving beverages, breakfast and lunch.  There is also an award winning restaurant for lunch in a room boasting Rex Whistler murals and award winning wine list.

The National Portrait Gallery (free) was founded in 1856.  It houses paintings of historical importance and famous British people.  The galleries are well organized and the paintings nicely displayed.  There are gift shops and a café.  Plan 1 to 2 hours.  Hours: 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM daily.

The Courtauld Gallery (Admission fee: 8 Pounds) adjacent to the Somerset House Museum complex is a true gem.  An outstanding collection of art from the early Renaissance to 20th century masterpieces seen no where else are not to be missed.  There is a cute cafe in the basement and an excellent gift shop across from the entrance.

For a deeper look, there are tons of specialized museums, theaters, attractions and just about anything you can imagine available.  Discovery while traveling is one of the reasons to travel and explore.  Enjoy.

Notes:

• Avoid major attractions on holiday weekends or major holidays.  The crowds can be huge making the exhibits difficult to enjoy.  If your schedule is tight, plan to visit those attractions as early in the day as possible.
• Choose the lesser popular attractions or farther afield destinations to travel to instead.  Large or extended families are less likely to choose those options because logistics can be more challenging.
• Try alternative sights or destinations in lieu of the most popular and save the most popular for a midweek day if possible.  It could make all the difference in the world.

Only a bit further afield from Central London and next to the village of Hamstead and it’s much adored open Heath is Kenwood House, a magnificent mansion set in expansive parklands. It is a visit you will enjoy any time of year.

The original structure dates to 1616, but was extensively expanded by the then owner William Murry, the Lord Cheif Justice and Earl of Mansfield in 1754 with the aid of architect Robert Adam.

After his death, the estate passed through several hands before finally being bought by Edward Cecil Guinness who used the House to showcase his extensive collection of art.  Ultimately he bequest the House and grounds to the English Heritage with the  condition the House and art collect remain intact and access to the public free of charge.

And so it is today.  A 15 minute underground ride to a world from the past.  The house is still in exceptional condition from its 18th Century overhaul.

The most impressive asset in the House is the extensive collection of fine art, including Rembrandt, Van Dyke, Hals, Reynolds, Gainsborough, JMW Turner and more.

Every room has highly skilled docents to help visitors absorb what they are experiencing.  This extra resource really maks the visit a memorable experience.  Vistors will leave with sense of having visited a day in the life of the House as it may have been.

Especially noteworthy, this is the home to Dido Elizabeth Belle, the illegitimate daughter of Sir John Lindsey, nephew to Lord Mansfield.  This was the true basis for the feature film production Belle in recent years.

Mamma Mia!

The long running musical Mamma Mia has attracted audiences for decades.  Its catchy Abba playlist set in the Greek Islands and the comedic love triangle plus one has become a classic.  This was our third viewing over time and possibly the most rewarding.

Perhaps it’s because it is playing in one of our favorite Cities in the World, London.  Or maybe it is because the production at the charming, four tier, West End Novello Theater just made it feel more intimate.

What caught our attention was the surprisingly large number of children, from four to teens and older.  And when they liked something they heard, they leapt to their feet and danced their tootsies off.  Conversely, we spotted many  seniors you might not expect to be up shaking it around, but there They were!

And why not, it is a classic, funny, charming and a reminder of the value of young at heart.

Rating: 4 Globes.